Story 14: Sailor collars - types and dressing on

Especially after watching "Lord Jeff (1938)" I wondered about the design and the interiour technique of sailor collars and how to dress them on.

I searched the web about it and there are some sewing patterns, but most are for cosplay costumes and are quite simple and probably not historically correct. I also found some pics and shopping results of real sailor collars.
The standard collar is pictured on top left (sorry, for my simple drawings).
It exists of probably 2 layers (top and bottom) and near the neck there seems to be a bit more roomy fabric at least on top.
Underneath on the chest there is an insert called dickey, which is sometimes only a piece of cloth which can be buttoned to the blouse. It can be seen hanging out after playing rugby in "Dangeorous Holiday". First I thought that undearneath it's just a T-shirt. There are also other kinds of dickeys, like in Lord Jeff (pic below) which are similar to a vest and be tied together at waist height. In Lord Jeff the dickey seemed to be attached at the collar. Different types of dickeys and other parts of the collar are pictured at

http://www.album1900.com/glossary/sailorsuit/sailorsuit.php

Sewing patterns are here (honestly I don't quite understand that technique of the 2nd part. Is that "sailor extension" an unfolded collar, a dickey or a blouse?)

http://egl.livejournal.com/2371011.html

I also found some interesting different historical collars of the Royal Canadian Navy (between 1910 and 1968). One pointed collar and one with a 3rd medium piece. At (click there on the top left links showing some pics)

http://mpmuseum.org/index3.html

A similar collar which has to be buttoned on the jacket is at

http://mydarlingdarlinghurst.blogspot.com/2011/01/across-border-woolloomooloo-retailers.html

In Japan there seem to be other collar styles (school uniforms for females, or manga?). There are Kansai, Kanto, Sapporo and Nagoya collars, obviously different in specific regions. I assume the Navy uniforms for real sailors have another design than those. There are also some very simple sailor suits, some even of rubber or only with a printed collar. I have seen also kids visiting a school museum. And the collars the today kids wore seem also very simple and not authentic. For more about Lord Jeff (rated 10) and Dangerous Holiday (rated 7) see that entries. Pic below showing Freddie Batholomew, Mickey Rooney and I think Terry Kilburn. Funny scene. The boy is hidden under the collar after putting it on. "Where are you lad ?"

I hope this will be useful for someone. Perhaps I should also search for patterns of Lederhosen.

Update: For more pics and other styles and the purpose of a sailor collar, see

/2012/01/story-16-sailor-collars-types-2-and.html